Himavad Gopalswamy Hill and Sri Ranganathaswamy temple, Srirangapattana

I had heard about Himavad Gopalaswamy Temple. My Friend Aruna mentioned it when I told him I was at Nanjangud. 

I said why not visit the place on a Sunday. I started reading more about the place,  Checked the route. 

HIMAWAD GOPALASWAMY BETTA

From Nanjangud you need to go to Gundlupete. (about 35 km) From Gundlupete to Hangala (about 10 km). From Hangala to checkpost 8 km. 2 km further uphill is Temple. 

I took KSRTC bus at 0630 hrs from Nanjangud to Gundlupete.

In Gundlupete bus stand there are green color Government buses displaying a board " Gopalaswamy Betta (Betta means hill in Kannada) but not all of them go to Betta. So Check with them before you board.

But most of them go via Hangala. You can wait for correct bus at Gundlupete or go to Hangala and wait for the bus to go to temple which comes from Gundlupete only. 

I took a bus at 0730 hrs that goes via Hangala and got down at Hangala. 

The checkpost is about 8 km from Hangala. The bus reached the check post at 0830 hrs. No private vehicles are allowed to go beyond checkpost.  Further up about 2 km is the temple. 

There was a large tourist group waiting and they all boarded the bus.  The forest guard opened the gate by 0830 hrs. This is first bus that goes to the hill top where the temple exists. 

The entire route road is really good and midst of paddy and other crop field. Quite green all around. Quite chilled too as we got closure to the hill top.

It was quite foggy and chilled. This is kind of climate people witness here through out the year. Quite nice.

I wanted to walk up the hill, but that is not allowed. 

I took Darshana of Sri Gopalaswamy and  Arati,  clicked some picture. Temple was not that well maintained. 

Not much to photograph. Time to go back. 

The bus that brought us to hill top makes round trips between hill top and check post (about 2 km) every 30 minutes.

I came down to check post. 

You can get some eatables, coffee, chai at checkpost. I checked up for the return bus to Gundlupete. The guy there casually said that the bus is at 1300 hrs ! 

I was not prepared to waste time there. It was still 1000 hrs. 

I anyway wanted to walk. Hence I walked about 8km back to Hangal. Climate was cool. I enjoyed the walk thoroughly. 

I took a KSRTC bus from Hangal to Mysore directly. 

I had planned to visit SriRangapattna in the after noon.

Sri Himawad Gopalaswamy Temple

View of temple from other edge

Foggy around the area. 

Road that I walked back to Hangal. 

If you are expecting a architecturally great temple, you will be disappointed. If you want to walk along the road from Hangal to Temple & back in early morning, it would be nice. 

Nice green patch on road side.

SRIRANGAPATTANA 

I reached Mysore about 1400 hrs. 

From Mysore I went to Srirangapattana by bus by 1430 hrs. 

My first visit to Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple. The Temple opens at 1600 hrs in the afternoon. Morning time could have been better because of the crowd. 

I had ample of time. I booked an auto to go Nimishamba Temple and Kaveri Sangama. 

Sangama area was filled plastic, waste papers, cloths. Just not maintained at all. I have no idea as to when we learn to keep our places clean. 

Kaveri Sangama

A Raftman in Sangama

I reached the Temple by 1600 hrs. I took Darshana of Swamy. Beautiful deity in sleeping posture. No pictures allowed inside. 

Beautiful SriRama Statue 

The Gopura of Sri Ranganatha swamy Temple.

It was very satisfying trip today. Darshana of Goplaswamy and Sri Ranganathaswamy - feeling blessed. 

Talakaadu Temples

This is continuation from my previous post of Somanathapura. 

I finished my photoshoot at Somanathapura by 0945 and headed towards Talakaadu. 

In the region the bus service is not so  frequent. Shared autos ply quite regular and less expensive. I took a shared auto from Somanathapura to Mudukutore. Again another shared auto to reach Talakadu. I was there by 1100 hrs.

From Somanathapura, one can reach Talakadu via T Narasipura as well. 

It is about 25 km and takes 45 minutes.

Talakadu does not seem to have any decent place to stay. Better to stay at Mysore. 


History and Legend :

Talakadu has close relationship  with erstwhile kings of Mysore Wodeyor dynasty of Karnataka. 

Origin of the city of Talakadu is lost in time. However earliest reference is that it was called as Dala Vana pura in Sanskrit, built by Ganga line of kings (247 - 267 AD) as their capital. By 11th century, Chola dynasty occupied Talakadu.  Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana took over the city after 100 years or so. Hoysalas retained it up till 14th century. It was then ruled by Viajayanagara Kings or by their feudatory kings.  
Here is the legend. 

In 1610 it was conquered by the Mysore Rāja under the following circumstances. Tirumala-Rāja, sometimes called Srī Ranga Rāya, the representative of the Vijayanagar family at Seringapatam (Srirangapatna), being afflicted with an incurable disease, came to Talkād for the purpose of offering sacrifices in the temple of Vaidyēsvara. His second wife Alamelamma was left in charge of the Government of Srirangagapattanam ; but she, hearing that her husband was on the point of death, soon after left for Talkād with the object of seeing him before he died, handing over Srirangapattanam and its dependencies to Rāja Wodeyar of Mysore, whose dynasty ever since retained them. It appears that Rāja Wodeyar had been desirous of possessing the jewels which was the property of the Rāni, and being unable to obtain them, and eager to seize at any pretext, he levied an army and proceeded against the Rani. Rāni Alamelamma thereupon went to the banks of the Cauvery, and throwing in the jewel, drowned herself opposite Mālangi, at the same time uttering a three-fold curse,-"Let Talakād become sand ; let Mālangi become a whirlpool ; let the Mysore Rājas fail to beget heirs." The latter part continues to affect the royal family.

Thereafter the town of Talakadu is covered under huge sand dunes. 

Note : The above history and story - courtesy wikipedia. 


What ever the legend says, one thing is sure that said area is surprisingly filled with huge sand mounds. Very strange. Near by river Kaveri bank is like a beach. Kaveri river must have flooded and pushed the sand onto cover the town. 

The temples what we see today are said to have been excavated and many more are still unearthed. Many of them are in sand pits. Four Temples are currently visible and open for public. 
Vaideshwara and keerti Narayana are very beautiful and prominent. Other two are smaller ones. Once in 12 years a great "Jatra" happens here it is said. 

Temples are majestic, beautiful deities and worshiping is allowed. 

The nearby Kaveri bank is more commercialised. Lot of tourists / picnic crowd. 

Crowd has no sense of Swach Bharat. 

Now I show best part - the pictures :

If you want to take river ride, go for the raft. Learn swimming before you attempt it. No life jackets. Rafts are locally  made out of Bamboo. 

Sri Keerti Narayana Temple. The structure in front is "Mahadwara"

Temple from a distance.

Closer view of " Mahadwara" Main gate. 

Sri Vaidehwara temple.

On the way back, I again took shared auto to reach Narasipura. From Narasipura I took a KSRTC Bus to reach Nanjnagud by 1430 hrs.

The trip was good filled with legend, history, mystery, kings, curse and I took lot of beautiful pictures. 

Somanathapura Temple near Mysore

Location of Somanathapura:

It is about 35 km from Mysore, should take about 45 min.  There are many KSRTC buses I guess. 

I had to find my way from Nanjangud, since I was staying in Nanjangudu. 

I took a bus from Nanjangudu to T. Narasipura.  Tirumanakudalu Narasipura. From T Narasipura I took another KSRTC bus to Somanathapura. Narasipura - Bannur route passes through Somanathapura. 

I left Nanjangudu around 0630 and reached Somanathapura by 0800 hrs.  Buses are not so frequent. Road is good. If you have your vehicle, drive on. Nice green patch, full of paddy field. 

Somanathapura is a sleepy town.  I got down the  bus to see many local villagers sitting under trees looking at me as I was a total stranger. 

There was not a single guy around who was a tourist. I felt happy since there would not be any crowd and I could take pictures with out any hassle. 

I asked some one about the temple. He showed the main entrance of manicured garden with an iron gate just few mtrs across. 

The board says - Entry Time is 0830 hrs to 1700 hrs. 

Hmm..... 30 minutes I had to wait. There were small tea shops and I sat sipping a glass of hot milk and waited for 30 minutes. 

Entry Fees :

Rs. 25 per person - Indian. Rs 300 per person for foreigner. Rs 25 additional if you want to make videos. You can not make videos with an actor.  No photoshoot with people I guess. No pre wedding photoshoot I guessed again.

The place is a heritage place and managed by ASI, and is maintained well.  The temple is now just a heritage place and no Pooja, worship.  After taking Darshana of the deities I felt bit sad, that no worship, no Alankara, no Veda Ghosha, yet felt blessed seeing beautiful Idols of Sri Venugopla, Sri Janardhana, Sri Keshava. 

The temple is amazingly beautiful. Resembles Sri Channakeshava Temple at Belur.  

It has three sanctum sanctorum ( Garba Griha ) for three deities and a common hall (Navaranga). 

Pictures speak more than words.  So enjoy the pictures.

The Temple was built some time in 13th century by Hoysala kings. Somanatha was an high ranking officer at Hoysala kingship, who built the said Temple. 

The temple outer wall has beautiful sculptures depicting the Hindu Purana, Itihaasa events, gods and demigods. I could not recognise many sculptures but could not stop complimenting the architects, builders, artisans who built such a beautiful temple. So much of detailing and work they had to do to build the marvel. 

Sri Vishnu.

Beautiful Sri Venugopala - one of the main deities.  I did not get the good images of other two, due to poor lighting. 

Natya Ganapati

Sri Vishnu relaxing on Shesha. 

Another Devi statue 

A Brahma Statue

Statue of Varaha ? 

Rows of Elephants, Horses and foot soldiers

Sri Vishnu with Laxmi

Mahishasura Mardini ?

Intricate carved ceiling inside the temple. there were many more. I could get only few good images.

Every statue is differently carved. So nicely designed and placed. 

Most of the statues are defaced in one or the other way, most faces are disfigured, unfortunately. Whoever vandalised the temple, were surely filled with hatred or they were absolutely stupid not to appreciate such beauty. 

It was good to be early at the temple. I took good round of temple and clicked clean pictures. By 0930 hrs group of tourists started to arrive. 

With crowd around you get such pictures and editing them is a painstakingly long process and in the process, the picture will lose the quality. 

Above was no crowd but look at the guys 

There were lot of foreign tourists along with local crowd.

Time for me to move to my next spot - Talakadu. I had planned to cover two spots on the same day.

Hope you enjoyed the pictures.

Talakaadu - next post.

In the region the bus service is not so  frequent. Shared autos ply quite regular and less expensive. I took a shared auto from Somanathapura to Mudukutore. Again another shared auto to reach Talakadu. I was there by 1100 hrs.

An architectural marvel standing testimony of the rich culture of the bygone era. 

The skill, knowledge and will to build such land mark temples with such great details are something which is beyond our comprehension  in today's context. 

Temples at Nanjangud & Melukote, Karnataka

Nanjangud is where our coffee and Noodles plants exist in state of Karnataka.  I was here at Nanjangud on duty for two weeks. 

Nanjangud is known for two things. One for Banana - "Rasabale". Another  for SriNanjundeshwara or Srikantheshwara Temple. 

Banana is really special and we do not get it in Gurgaon. I consumed it as much I like. 

NANJANGUD : 

One evening I visited the Temple. The temple is evidently quite an ancient one. It is believed to have been built by Ganga kings in 9th century and later developed by Chola, Hoysala and Vijayanagara kings subsequently. 

Huge sculpted structure and beautiful Gopura. 

I could take picture of Gopura only. No photographs are permitted inside the premise. 

Presiding deity is Shiva. There are deities of goddess Parvati, Sri Subramanya and Sri Ganapati 

Here i show the imposing image of the Gopura.

Nanjangud is just 25 km from Mysore and is well connected by bus transport from Mysore.  I am not sure if it is good idea to stay at Nanjangud. Mysore would be better place to stay. 

Temple is open  from 0630 to 1200 and then from 1830 hrs to 2000 hrs.

I stayed at our company guest house at Nanjangud. Guesthouse kitchen is not operational on Sunday. Hence invariably we wander out of guest house on Sundays.

MELUKOTE :

On Sunday I planned to visit a nearby temple town - Melukote. It is a very popular pilgrimage for Hindus, specially for Vaishnavas. There are two very famous, sacred  temples. Sri Ramanujacharya is believed to have stayed here for 12 years.

Mysore is 25 km from Nanjangud. Melukote is about 50 km from Mysore. There are lot of buses ply on the route. You may not find so frequent buses directly to Melukote. Find a bus that goes towards Tumkur via "Jakkanahhali cross". Get down at Jakkanahally cross and get into any shared autorikshaw to  reach Melukote which is about 5km from Jakkanahalli cross.  Shared autowala can also take you alone to Melukote if you shell out more money. There are buses too, but infrequent. 

I left guest house by 0600 and reached Melukote temple by 0900 hrs.

Two sacred temples are Sri Cheluva Narayana Swamy Temple and Sri Yoganarasimha temple. Yoga Narasimha temple  is just 1.5 km away on a hill from Sri Cheluva narayana Swamy temple. There is a beautiful "kalyanai" in between these two temples. 

Fortunately I was just in time to witness a grand "Utsava" or ceremony  of carrying Utsava Murty on a "Golden Pallakki" to "kalyanai for an annual ritual. 

It was blissful divine feeling to get "Darshana" of the Swamy so close, when he with two consorts SriDevi and BhuDevi fully embellished with gold and diamond ornaments are carried on a "Pallakki" procession. 

Here are the pictures of Swamy and the Kalyani. 

Kalyani is huge and well maintained. People take holy dip and then take Darshana.


Sri Cheluva Narayana swamy temple sanctum Sanatorium is surrounded by covered stone platform supported by beautifully sculptured pillars. I could grab few pictures of the pillars and the entrance Gopura.

If I had more time I could have closely observed the sculptures on the pillars. There are many more such pillars.

 Intricate sculpture of the pillar. Notice that the bottom of the pillar is not fully touching the floor. 

Long corridor on outside perimeter of the temple. These pillars are of simple carving. 

Beautiful Gopura at the entrance. 

YOGANARASIMHA TEMPLE : 

From here you need to walk further & climb up about 300 steps or go by vehicle through a road. I walked up. It is at height of about 1800 mtr from mean sea level. 

An young boy with his mother climbing up the steps. 

The view of Sri YogaNarasimha Temple from Kalyani. The entrance Gopura was being renovated which dampen my intent to photograph it.  If not for renovation, I could have taken more pictures. 

The view of Kalyani from the hill top. 

Beware  of Monkeys on hilltop. They grab your hand bag or so on your way up & down.

I took some candid pictures of some priests walking around in the town.

Here are some...

I had good lunch at Melukote. You will invariably  get to taste "Puliogare".  I came back to Guest house by 1630 hrs.


I have understood, learnt one thing on travel or visiting a place. One should be clear in his / her expectations out of the visit or travel.
Do pre search the place and see if it suits the expectation. In some religious or historical places, one may not get to see exotic and wondrous things but the place has some importance or significance that matters.

Some times you need to go back in time visualising the scene at the spot to feel the event, that had taken place several hundred or thousand years ago.

I feel that the visit to Melukote fulfilled my expectations quite well.